Here I share a bit about the visits I made in Parma to producers of Parma ham and Parmigiano Reggiano!
We traveled through Modena and Parma on this trip. I felt very close to food, because over those four days I learned the stories and the methods behind some of the most well-known foods in the world. Italians take great pride in what they produce—you can sense it in the way they talk about what they make and eat. I’ll share a bit about the visits I made with my friends over four days of travel!
First day, late afternoon – Salumificio Conti
Honestly, during the first visit I felt a little scared, but that’s a personal issue of mine. Seeing all those pork legs hanging at the beginning was unsettling, but little by little your eyes get used to it. The place has a very distinctive smell, and when you combine that smell with the sight, it can feel a bit strange. But if seeing meat isn’t a problem for you, there’s nothing to worry about!
A highly structured operation, with ideal temperature control, trained people, and a process that requires many hands. To care for the meat, check that everything is on the right path, and adjust what needs to be adjusted. Parma ham has a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), and its curing and processing must obligatorily be carried out in Parma. The pigs may be raised in specific regions in the north of the country. With no preservatives—just salt and meat—it is a product rich in history, pride, and meticulous care.
We visited all the “rooms,” and at the end we saw the pieces hanging. It was well worth it to learn about the history and the production process. At the end of the visit, we had a tasting. There are many salumerias, but the tip is to book all visits in advance—this way you can plan calmly and find places with good prices.
Second day, morning – 4 Madonne Caseificio dell’Emilia
The next day we visited a Parmigiano Reggiano dairy, and this one was very special. Milk arrives in large vats twice a day—they don’t take a single day off. After going through the production process, the cheese spends at least 18 days in brine and requires a minimum of 12 months of aging. At the dairy, we tasted cheeses aged 12, 18, 24, and 36 months. They are quite different from one another, both in texture and in the intensity of flavor.
Seeing all those enormous wheels of cheese aging is like stepping into a dream. They carry history, care, and so much flavor. And to be sold in the end as Parmigiano Reggiano, each wheel must pass a series of strict criteria—otherwise, they are redirected to other products.
My friends and I brought cheese back in our suitcases, and I even brought mine all the way to Brazil. Back home, my family tasted the cheese with a bit of Modena balsamic vinegar—my favorite—but that’s a story for the next post!
These visits were absolutely worth it. Learning about the production process and then putting it into practice through tasting was really enjoyable. It’s a slightly higher cost, but they are unique experiences, and if you have the opportunity, it’s truly worth it.
Cost:
Parmigiano Reggiano: €20 for the tour + tasting.
Prosciutto: €50, though there are cheaper options—you just need to book in advance. We chose this one because it was what we managed to get at the last minute.
See you next time,
Maria
Prosciutto di Parma: https://www.contiprosciutti.it
Parmigiano Reggiano: https://www.caseificio4madonne.it/en/adonne.it/en/